A journey through Sicily

the evening before you land in Palermo at around 21:30 and sleep near the port. In the morning it is 130 kilometres and two hours to Agrigento, along the SS121, which often has roadworks. The motorhome is left at the Porta V car park, where you cannot sleep at night. On Mondays the Temple Tour Bus, which on the other days goes up from Porta V to the Temple of Juno entrance, does not run: you walk up the Via Sacra to the Temple of Juno and come back down the same way, with the Kolymbethra at the bottom and sunset at around a quarter past five, because on the night of the 25th the clocks go back to standard time. The Valley ticket is valid all day, and young people under eighteen enter free. The night at the San Leone campsite, three kilometres away.

the longest drive of the journey, 150 kilometres and two and a half hours along the coast, by way of Gela and Vittoria. The afternoon is all on foot: the cold-worked chocolate at the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the Corso Umberto, the steps of San Giorgio. Modica has no municipal motorhome area, and you sleep at the piazzale Falcone e Borsellino, beside the Corso; anyone who needs water and waste disposal finds them at the private area on the plateau, four kilometres away, or waits for Noto.

forty minutes of road, so the day is almost a rest, and at the agricampeggio you fill up and empty the tanks as you could not in Modica. You go up to the centre in the late afternoon, with the shuttle the owner provides for guests or on foot in about twenty minutes, when the stone turns the colour of honey: the cathedral, the balconies of Palazzo Nicolaci, which since 3 October 2026 can be visited inside again too, and the almond granita at the Caffè Sicilia.

half an hour to Syracuse, arriving in time for the Ortigia market, which lives in the morning. The motorhome is left at the Molo Sant'Antonio, a few minutes from the bridge, and in the evening it moves for the night to the municipal area of Von Platen, behind the Paolo Orsi museum, with water, waste disposal and electricity. In the afternoon the cathedral built inside the Temple of Athena and the Fountain of Arethusa; if the sea allows, the boat trip round the caves of the island.

an hour of motorway to Catania. The afternoon is for the city, or for sunset on Etna with one of the off-road excursions that leave from Catania, with the motorhome left where it is. The night at the Autoparco Ghidara, the only stopover in the city that declares itself guarded, on the right side for setting off the next day towards the A19.

the morning is for the Pescheria, which is open on Saturdays and is lively until lunchtime, for the Cathedral of Sant'Agata and for a granita with a brioche. Lunch with an arancino, then you leave by 14:30: it is 210 kilometres and almost three hours of the A19 to the port of Palermo, where you need to be at around 21:00 for the 23:30 ferry. This day's dot is on the Palermo ferry terminal, where the tour ends.