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the jetty with the green light at the harbour entrance, the beach and the town behind, with the lighthouse, Notre-Dame and the belfry
Photo: Tanya Dedyukhina, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

France · Hauts-de-France · Sea and coast

Calais

Rodin's Burghers in front of the belfry, the lace of the Leavers looms, the lighthouse above the Courgain, the beach of the ferries and, beyond Blériot-Plage, the two capes of the Côte d'Opale

6 stopswhere to park
16 sightsto see
10 eventsseasonal

Calais is the French city closest to England, on the strait where the English Channel meets the North Sea: when the sky is clear, from the beach, you can see the white cliffs of Dover. In 1347, after eleven months of siege, it surrendered to Edward III, and six notables brought him the keys barefoot and with ropes around their necks: they are Rodin's Burghers of Calais (Bourgeois de Calais), in front of the town hall, below the belfry. The city remained English until 1558. In the Second World War almost three quarters of it was destroyed, and today the old part, Calais-Nord, enclosed between the canals and the harbour basins, has the medieval Tour du Guet, the church of Notre-Dame where Charles de Gaulle had his church wedding, and the lighthouse above the fishermen's quarter of the Courgain; to the south, in the old Saint-Pierre, are the town hall, the Burghers and the Cité de la dentelle, where nineteenth century looms still make lace. To the west the beach begins, with the ferries passing in front of it, and after Blériot-Plage the coast climbs towards Cap Blanc-Nez. With a motorhome you sleep at the rue d'Asfeld stopover, a few hundred metres from the beach, or at the campsites in Sangatte; parking in the city is free, and so are the buses.

Sleeping

Stops and overnight stays

In Calais there is only one stopover for motorhomes, with a barrier, in rue d'Asfeld, near the beach, with electricity and water but no toilets. Those who want showers go to a campsite in Sangatte, towards the Blanc-Nez. For the evening of the two capes it is best to sleep in Wissant, the village in the middle of the bay, where there is a paid stopover and a municipal campsite; between the two capes there is also a private stopover on a farm. You cannot sleep in the car parks at the capes.

Aire de camping-cars di rue d'Asfeld

275 rue d'Asfeld, 62100 Calais

the motorhome stopover of Calais, part of the Camping-Car Park network, in the beach district, facing the canal that leads to the marina: the beach is seven hundred metres away, and place d'Armes a kilometre and a half on foot. Every pitch has a 6 amp socket; water and emptying are behind the barrier. There are no toilets and no showers. Next to it, in the same street, are the large P8 and P9 car parks, free of charge

102 motorhome pitches

ElectricityWaterGrey waterWi-Fi

15.25 euros for 24 hours, including the tourist tax of 1.20 euros, in the operator's price list valid from 21 October 2026 to 31 December 2027; 6 euros for five hours' parking with the facilities · campingcarpark.com

50.959330, 1.832247

Camping du Fort Lapin, Sangatte

D940, 62231 Sangatte

a three-star campsite at the foot of the dunes, fifty metres from the sea, on the coast road, at Blériot-Plage. It has its own motorhome service point, which can only be used by those who sleep there at least one night

89 pitches for motorhomes, out of 141

ElectricityWaterGrey waterToiletsShowerLaundry

The campsite does not publish its price list; in September 2026 travellers paid 21 euros a night for two, without electricity · +33 3 21 97 67 77

50.956880, 1.811290

Camping des Noires Mottes, Sangatte

rue Pierre Dupuy, 62231 Sangatte

a three-star campsite in the village of Sangatte, a hundred metres from the long beach, just over four kilometres from Cap Blanc-Nez. The bakery and the supermarket are a few minutes away on foot. It also takes motorhomes passing through, and you can pay by card

152 pitches in all

ElectricityWaterGrey waterToiletsShowerLaundry

The campsite does not publish its price list: ask for the price by phone · +33 3 21 82 04 75

50.946554, 1.758163

Aire de camping-cars di Wissant

12 route de Calais, 62179 Wissant

the motorhome stopover of Wissant, the village in the middle of the bay between the two capes, on the road coming from Calais, six hundred metres from the town hall square. Partly shaded. Pitches can be bought in advance on Qipeo. In the village, on foot, there are the bakery, the supermarket, the fishmonger and the pharmacy, and the beach is a kilometre away. It is the stopover for the evening of the two capes: the Blanc-Nez is five kilometres away as the crow flies, the Gris-Nez six

50 motorhome pitches

ElectricityWaterGrey waterChemical toiletWaste

11 euros for 24 hours for two adults, including the tourist tax; water 2 euros for ten minutes and electricity 3 euros for twelve hours · qipeo.com

50.886810, 1.670360

Camping municipal de la Source, Wissant

3 rue de la Source, 62179 Wissant

the municipal campsite of Wissant, a hundred and fifty metres from the sea, with more than eight hectares of shaded pitches and the emptying area for motorhomes. For electricity you need an extension cable of about fifty metres and the adapter. Reception is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:00, on Saturday from 9:00 to 12:30 and from 14:00 to 17:00, and is closed on Sunday afternoon; outside these hours you ring for the warden. You book online on the municipality's website

391 pitches in all, all with electricity

ElectricityWaterGrey waterToiletsShowerLaundryWi-Fi

In the municipality's 2026 price list, 5.40 euros per person per day, 6.70 euros for 6 amp electricity, 1.40 euros for a pet and 0.20 euros per person in tourist tax; the pitch and the vehicle are paid separately · +33 3 21 35 92 46 · ville-wissant.fr

50.881656, 1.654857

Aire de la Ferme de l'Horloge, Tardinghen

1615 route d'Ausques, 62179 Tardinghen

a private stopover in the fields of a farm between the two capes, in the municipality of Tardinghen, with a view of the sea and, on clear days, of Dover. The Gris-Nez is less than five kilometres away as the crow flies, the Blanc-Nez eight. There are no shops nearby: do your shopping before you arrive. On the same road is the Brasserie des 2 Caps

about fifty, in three fields

ElectricityWaterGrey waterChemical toiletWaste

The stopover does not publish its price list; in August 2026 travellers paid 5 euros for the facilities, and you ask for the price of the night. Payment in cash · +33 3 21 83 30 34

50.861533, 1.649823

Getting around

Getting around

Calais is explored on foot: the town hall, Calais-Nord and the beach are all within two kilometres, and the tourist office reckons about ten kilometres on foot to see everything in a day. For the rest there are the buses, free for everyone, and the motorhome stays at the stopover.

  • The Imag'in buses are free for everyone, with no ticket: thirteen lines for Calais and the villages around it, Sangatte and Blériot-Plage included. Lines 3 and 5 go to the beach. The Balad'in, the shuttle of the centre, runs Monday to Saturday from 9:00 to 19:00, every ten or fifteen minutes, from the fishing harbour to the boulevard Lafayette, and also stops at the ferry terminal. In high season line 5 is run with the Div'in, the double-decker bus with an open top when the sun shines, which goes free of charge from Calais-Ville station to Cap Blanc-Nez along the whole coast in about thirty-five minutes. The network also has the Majest'in, the shuttle boat on the canal that stops in front of the Cité de la dentelle. Information on +33 3 21 19 72 72
  • Parking in the city is free since 1 June 2025. In the shopping streets there is the blue zone, an hour and a half with the parking disc, Monday to Saturday from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 19:00; the disc can be picked up at the town hall, in the shops or at the tourist office. On the edges of the centre are the park and ride car parks, a few minutes on foot from the monuments and served by the buses: Le Channel, Sophie-Berthelot, the Bassin Ouest of the marina and rue d'Asfeld. The Calais Cœur de Vie multi-storey car park is not for motorhomes
  • By bicycle: Vel'in bicycles can be hired, and there is a station at the Cité de la dentelle. Two routes pass through Calais: the Vélomaritime, EuroVelo 4, along the coast, and the Via Romea Francigena, EuroVelo 5
  • Trains: Calais-Ville station is in the centre, three hundred metres from the town hall; the TGV station is Calais-Fréthun, nine kilometres away, with shuttles to the centre
  • Ferries and the tunnel: the ferry port is twenty minutes on foot from the centre. For Dover there are up to fifty crossings a day, at all hours, with P&O Ferries, Irish Ferries and DFDS, and the crossing takes about an hour and a quarter. Le Shuttle, the tunnel train to Folkestone, leaves from Coquelles, south-west of the city
  • The Crit'Air sticker: in France it is needed in the low emission zones, such as those of Lille and Paris, and is ordered on the official website certificat-air.gouv.fr, as a vehicle registered abroad

Seeing

Sights

One day, or two with the capes. In the morning the town hall with the belfry and the Burghers, the museum in the bunker of the parc Saint-Pierre and the Cité de la dentelle; then to the north, beyond the canals, Calais-Nord with the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Notre-Dame, the place d'Armes with the Tour du Guet, the lighthouse and the Courgain with the fishing harbour; in the afternoon the Fort Risban, the jetée, the Dragon and the beach as far as Blériot-Plage. Tap a marker on the map to open its entry below.

1

The Hôtel de Ville and the belfry

Viewpoint · paid entry · 50.95269, 1.85457

place du Soldat Inconnu, 62100 Calais

the town hall was built between 1911 and 1923 by the architect Louis Debrouwer, for the city born in 1885 from the union of Calais and Saint-Pierre, and was inaugurated on 12 April 1925: in Flemish and Renaissance style, of red brick and white stone, with the reinforced concrete frame that allowed it to withstand the bombing. The belfry is 75 metres high, with four yellow clock faces, four gilded horsemen and a dragon-shaped weathervane, and its carillon plays La Gentille Annette. You go up on a half-hour guided tour, by lift or by 175 steps, to the walkway at 55 metres, which runs all the way round: below you see the city, the port, the Burghers' garden and the statue of the Duke of Guise. In the wedding hall, on 6 April 1921, with the building work still under way, Charles de Gaulle's civil wedding took place

Opening hours in 2026, in high season from 12 April, Tuesday to Sunday 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:30, with the last tour at 17:00; in low season, in 2025-2026 from 3 November to 11 April, without booking on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at the same times, on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday by booking only, and in the zone B school holidays every day except Monday. Closed every Monday, on 1 May, 25 December and 1 January · 6 euros; 3.50 for minors, students and those aged 65 and over; free under 5 years · +33 3 21 46 62 83 · calais.fr · beffroi@mairie-calais.fr

2

The Burghers of Calais

Monument · free entry · 50.95235, 1.85343

Auguste Rodin's bronze group, in the formal French garden in front of the town hall, with the belfry behind. In 1347, during the Hundred Years' War, after almost a year of siege, Edward III demanded that six notables bring him the keys of the city barefoot, in their shirts and with ropes around their necks, and among them was Eustache de Saint-Pierre; Queen Philippa of Hainault obtained their pardon. The monument was commissioned by the mayor Omer Dewavrin, who in 1884 entrusted it to Rodin: six life-size figures, each one different, conceived without the tall pedestal of the monuments of the time. Rodin finished it in 1889, and it was unveiled on 3 June 1895. The plaster studies of the Burghers are at the Musée des Beaux-Arts

3

The Musée Mémoire 39-45

Museum · paid entry · 50.95180, 1.85083

parc Saint-Pierre, 62100 Calais

a real reinforced concrete bunker, 94 metres long, built in 1941 under the trees of the parc Saint-Pierre as a command post of the German navy, and spared by the bombing. The corridor runs through twenty rooms: photographs of the time, newspapers, objects of everyday life, more than sixty uniforms of different armies, weapons and posters, and the life of Calais during the occupation. The visit takes an hour and a half. The park is in front of the town hall

Opening hours in 2026 from 1 April to 31 August every day 10:00-18:00; in February and March, and from 1 September to 30 October, 11:00-17:00, closed on Tuesday and Sunday; closed from 31 October to the end of January. Last entry three quarters of an hour before closing · 8 euros from 12 years, 6 euros from 4 to 11 years, free under 4 years; with a TER ticket for the same day 6 and 4.50 euros · +33 3 21 34 21 57 · musee-3945.com

4

The Cité de la dentelle et de la mode

Museum · paid entry · 50.95031, 1.85983

135 quai du Commerce, 62100 Calais

the museum of Calais lace, in a nineteenth century lace factory, with two thousand square metres in five galleries: handmade lace from the sixteenth century, then the birth of machine-made lace in Calais, with the English pioneers and the Leavers loom, which since 1834 has read Jacquard's punched cards. The heart of the visit is the century-old Leavers looms working in front of the visitors: the demonstration lasts ten minutes, is repeated several times a day and is included in the ticket, but on Saturday it does not take place. Then fashion in lace, with dresses by the great couturiers, and a model of Calais in 1900. Allow at least an hour and a half for the visit. Large rucksacks and suitcases are not allowed in: they can be left, for a fee, at the left luggage office of the Calais Cœur de Vie shopping centre, five minutes away on foot. Next to the museum there is a free car park, with spaces for coaches

Opening hours from 1 April to 31 October 10:00-18:00, with the ticket office closing at 17:00; from 1 November to 31 March 10:00-17:00. Closed every Tuesday, on 1 May, on 24, 25 and 31 December and on 1 January · 7 euros for the collections with the exhibition, reduced 5; the exhibition alone 4 euros, reduced 3; outside exhibition periods 5 euros, reduced 3.50. Free on the first Sunday of the month and under 5 years; with a TER ticket for the same day you pay less · +33 3 21 00 42 30 · cite-dentelle.fr

Take me there
5

The Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Galerie Rodin

Museum · free entry · 50.95689, 1.85167

25 rue Richelieu, 62100 Calais

the city museum, opposite the parc Richelieu, free for everyone. Since 2025 it has had the Galerie Rodin, with the twenty-one sculptures lent by the Musée Rodin in Paris, in addition to its own: the studies for the Burghers and other works by Rodin. Animals are not allowed in, except guide dogs, and neither are suitcases; bags are left in the lockers. The museum has a ramp and a lift to all three floors

Opening hours Tuesday to Friday 9:30-18:00, Saturday and Sunday 12:30-18:00; from November to March it closes at 17:30; last entry half an hour before closing. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 1 and 11 November, 24, 25 and 31 December · free for everyone · +33 3 21 46 48 40 · mba.calais.fr

Take me there
6

Notre-Dame

Church · 50.95820, 1.85326

rue Notre-Dame, 62100 Calais

the oldest church in the city, in medieval Calais, begun in the thirteenth century and enlarged by the English, masters of Calais from 1347, with Flemish workmen: this is why its architecture is English in style, unique in France. In the seventeenth century it was given the Lady Chapel and the great marble altarpiece. Here, on 7 April 1921, Captain Charles de Gaulle and Yvonne Vendroux had their church wedding, she being from Calais: in front of the church is the little square with the cross of Lorraine. In the war the great bell tower collapsed, and the church has been rebuilt little by little since the 1960s; next to it is the Tudor garden of 2016. From here, on the continent, the Via Francigena to Rome begins. The opening times are not published: ask at the tourist office, which organises guided tours in summer

Take me there
7

Place d'Armes and the Tour du Guet

Square · free entry · 50.95894, 1.84950

place d'Armes, 62100 Calais

the market square of Calais-Nord, which in the time of the English was called place du Marché. In the middle stands the Tour du Guet, the watchtower, 38 metres high, the oldest monument in the city, probably from the thirteenth century. At its foot, on 4 August 1347, the governor Jean de Vienne gathered the population to announce Edward III's terms. Damaged by the earthquake of 1580, the fire of 1658 and the cannonballs of 1696, it served as a lighthouse from 1818 until 1848, and was also used for the telegraph; the two wars spared it, and at the top flies the blue flag of Calais with its white cross. The tower is seen from the outside. Around it stand the houses of the Reconstruction; the square is that of the Wednesday and Saturday market

Take me there
8

The lighthouse

Viewpoint · paid entry · 50.96129, 1.85365

boulevard des Alliés, 62100 Calais

the Calais lighthouse, lit on 15 October 1848, electric since 1883 and automatic since 1987, a historic monument since 2011. You climb it on an accompanied visit, 271 steps up a spiral staircase, to the balcony at the top of the tower, at 51 metres: all around, the town hall, the Courgain, the harbours and, in clear weather, the English coast. There is no lift, and the balcony closes in strong wind and in thunderstorms. Downstairs, free of charge, there is a room on sea signals with instruments to try, the compass, the sextant and the VHF radio

Opening hours from June to September every day 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-18:00; in the school holidays of zone B every day 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:30; the rest of the year on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:30. Last ascent half an hour before closing in the morning and three quarters of an hour before in the afternoon · 6 euros; 2 euros under 15 years; 12 euros for a family, up to two adults and four children under 15; free under 5 years · pharedecalais.com · contact@pharedecalais.com

Take me there
9

The Courgain maritime and the quai de la Colonne

Walk · free entry · 50.96275, 1.85089

quai de la Colonne, 62100 Calais

the quarter of sailors and fishermen, the oldest in Calais, which grew up as a fishing village in the twelfth century around the fishing harbour, below the lighthouse. Every morning, depending on when the boats go out and on the tides, on the quays of the quai de la Colonne fishermen and fishmongers sell the catch of the day from their stalls. In front of the harbour entrance is place du Minck. On 15 August the quarter holds its festival, and in mid November the herring festival

Take me there
10

The Louis XVIII column

Monument · free entry · 50.96095, 1.85030

boulevard des Alliés, 62100 Calais

the column on the harbour that marks the spot where Louis XVIII landed on 24 April 1814, returning to France from exile in England after the fall of Napoleon. The ferries pass behind it

Take me there
11

The Fort Risban

Castle · free entry · 50.96381, 1.84789

the fort at the harbour entrance, a historic monument like the Fort Nieulay, which closed off the city on the other side: they are seen from the outside, and inside they can be visited on request at the tourist office. At the Risban the powder magazine and the Logis du Major have been restored, with a space for exhibitions, and at the end of April the fort opens for the days of the region's fortified sites, in 2026 on 25 and 26 April. In front of it is the bassin du Paradis with its boats

Take me there
12

The jetée and the ferry port

Walk · free entry · 50.96941, 1.84110

the jetée Ouest, the pier that closes the harbour on the beach side, with the green lighthouse at the end, is the seaside promenade of Calais: from there you watch the ferries entering and leaving the port pass close by, and behind you the city with the lighthouse, Notre-Dame and the belfry. The ferry terminal for Dover is on the other side of the harbour

Take me there
13

The Dragon de Calais

Point of interest · paid entry · 50.96573, 1.84510

201 avenue Winston Churchill, 62100 Calais

a machine of steel and wood ten metres high and twenty-five long, by François Delarozière, the man behind the machines of the île de Nantes: a dragon that walks along the seafront, moves its eyes, mouth and wings, and spits fire, smoke and water. You ride on its back, on a covered platform for 48 passengers, for a three-quarter-hour journey with commentary by the machinists; in bad weather you visit it in its hall. Since 2026 there has also been the Varan de Voyage, a monitor lizard that tours the districts, starting with the Courgain. Tickets can also be bought online, while places last

Opening hours all year, according to the company's calendar: some days the Dragon goes out, other days the Varan. The ticket office opens half an hour before the first departure · in 2026 the Dragon 9.50 euros from 12 years and 7.50 from 4 to 11 years, free up to 3 years; the Varan 8.50 and 6.50 · +33 3 66 62 60 00 · compagniedudragon.com

14

The beach of Calais

Beach · free entry · 50.96511, 1.83927

the beach of Calais, of fine sand, which changes a great deal with the tides, with the ferries passing in front and, when the sky is clear, the English cliffs on the horizon. The seafront was redone in 2021: the wooden boardwalk along the sand, flowerbeds, children's play areas, a skatepark of more than four thousand square metres, a viewpoint almost a hundred metres long over the sea, wheelchair accessible, and kiosks open all year. In 2026 it won the competition for the favourite beach of the French. In summer there are lifeguards, and on the beach the white beach huts stand in a row

Take me there
15

Blériot-Plage

Beach · free entry · 50.95603, 1.81957

after Calais the beach continues westwards to Blériot-Plage, part of Sangatte: Sangatte and Blériot-Plage have eight kilometres of beach, with the dunes of Fort-Mahon. Blériot-Plage takes its name from Louis Blériot, who took off from here in July 1909 for the first flight across the English Channel. The attempts to dig the tunnel under the Channel were also made here. It is the coast road towards the Blanc-Nez, with the Fort Lapin campsite

16

Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez

Viewpoint · free entry · 50.92543, 1.70695

ten kilometres from Calais the coast turns into cliffs: the Blanc-Nez, of white chalk, 134 metres high, and beyond the bay of Wissant the Gris-Nez, of sandstone and marl, the cape closest to England. Together they are the Grand Site de France des Deux-Caps, and they are described in the experience of the two capes

When

Events

In Calais the big festivities are Christmas, with the village and the ice rink under the Halle, and summer by the sea, from the fireworks of 14 July to the Courgain festival on 15 August. In spring the city opens its Art Deco buildings, and at the two capes, every two years, photographs go on show in the open air.

Next: Calais fête Noël avec les Teddy · 28 Nov - 3 Jan

28 Nov › 3Jan

Calais fête Noël avec les Teddy

from late November to early January

the city's Christmas, with the Teddy bears as mascots: the Christmas village in place d'Armes, with the chalets, the 1900 carousel and the ice rink under the Halle, half an hour for 2 euros, with gloves compulsory; the Christmas market with forty chalets in place du Théâtre, in 2026 from 5 to 20 December; the giant tree and the nativity scene in front of the town hall, the animated decorations of the town hall, the fireworks on 20 December and, on 1 January, the New Year's swim on the beach

14Jul

Feu d'artifice du 14 juillet

on 14 July

the fireworks of the national holiday, on the beach of Calais, free of charge; in 2026 at 23:30

15Aug

Fête du Courgain Maritime

on 15 August

the festival of the fishermen's quarter: mass at Notre-Dame, the procession with wreaths to the Léon Vincent monument and to the monument to the sea rescuers, and then the party on the quai de la Colonne, with mussels and chips, smoked herrings and whelks. You pay in cash, and 50 euro notes are not accepted

This year's dates are not out yet

Foire d'hiver

in January and February

the winter funfair on the square in front of the town hall, in 2026 from 17 January to 8 February. On the days of the fair you cannot park in place du Soldat Inconnu, in front of or behind the town hall, or in the streets around it

Printemps de l'Art déco

in April and May

the spring festival of the Art Deco heritage of the Hauts-de-France, in 2026 from 3 April to 31 May: in Calais you can visit the town hall, with the wrought ironwork of Adalbert Szabo, the fresco by Jeanne Thil and the stained glass by Dagrant, the Bourse du travail and the Saint-Pierre district

Journées des espaces fortifiés

in late April

the days of the region's fortified sites, at the Fort Risban, with free activities: in 2026, the twenty-third edition, on 25 and 26 April

Deux-Caps Photos Festival

from May to November, every two years

the nature and landscape photography festival of the Grand Site de France des Deux-Caps: more than two hundred and fifty large-format photographs in the open air, on the paths, in the dunes and in the squares of the villages between the two capes, free of charge. The fourth edition is in 2027

Fête du Flobart

in late August

the festival of the flobart, the beach boat of the coast's fishermen, in Wissant: the boats parading on the beach, sea shanties, concerts and seafood; in 2026 from 21 to 23 August

Kermesse de la moule

in September

the mussel festival under the Halle in place d'Armes: in 2026 the seventeenth edition, on Sunday 6 September, from 12:00 to 18:00, 20 euros for adults and 12 under 12 years, booking at the tourist office

Fête du hareng

in mid November

the festival of the herring, the king fish of the Côte d'Opale, in the Courgain quarter, with tastings and sailors' music

Remember

Useful tips

  • On 1 May the belfry, the Cité de la dentelle and the Musée des Beaux-Arts are closed. The belfry and the Musée des Beaux-Arts are also closed on Monday, the Cité on Tuesday. A Friday at the end of April, during the zone B holidays, is a good day for Calais: everything is open, and at the Cité the looms work in front of the visitors, which does not happen on Saturday
  • The spring holidays of the northern schools, zone B, run in 2027 from 17 April to 2 May: on those days the lighthouse is open every day, and for the Dragon it is best to buy tickets online
  • On Friday there is no market in the square in Calais: there is still the fish of the quai de la Colonne, in the morning, depending on when the boats go out and on the tides. The big markets are on Wednesday and Saturday in place d'Armes, and on Thursday and Saturday in place Crèvecœur
  • You cannot sleep in the car parks of the two capes: the site is classified, and staying overnight in a motorhome is forbidden. For the evening of the capes there is the Wissant stopover, which in the holidays is best booked on Qipeo
  • The rue d'Asfeld stopover has no toilets: those who want showers sleep at the Fort Lapin or the Noires Mottes, in Sangatte, or at the municipal campsite of Wissant, which does not accept motorhomes longer than 7.50 metres. In winter the three campsites are closed: the Fort Lapin from 1 November, the Noires Mottes and La Source from mid November, until the spring
  • Arriving from Dunkirk, at Marck, on the outskirts of Calais, there is a municipal motorhome stopover with water and emptying, near the Ferme des Aigrettes, in allée de la Découverte: the tourist office gives it at 8 euros a night
  • Order the Crit'Air sticker before you set off, on the official website: it is needed in Paris, in Lille and in the other French cities with a low emission zone
  • Animals are not allowed in the Musée des Beaux-Arts; large rucksacks are not allowed in the Cité de la dentelle. With a TER ticket for the same day, the regional train, the Cité and the Musée Mémoire give a discount
  • In a motorhome sole à la Courguinoise is made with a single frying pan, with the fish, mussels and shrimps bought in the morning on the quai de la Colonne; welsh, on the other hand, needs an oven

Calais · part two

and then?

What to do, what to taste, and where to go tomorrow.

Experiences from here

What we did starting from here, ordered by driving time.

Taste

Calais is a fishing port, and its cuisine is the fish of the harbour: sole, sea bass, plaice, mackerel and above all herring, the king fish of the Côte d'Opale, which is caught in November and eaten grilled, marinated or smoked, like that of the saurisserie Emile Fournier, the smokehouse founded in 1901. The city's dish is sole à la Courguinoise, from the Courgain, the fishermen's quarter, with mussels and brown shrimps. Then mussels and chips, the plateau de fruits de mer and welsh, bread covered with cheddar melted in beer, which according to legend reached the coast with the British soldiers of the First World War. The city's cheese is the pavé de Calais; from the coast of the capes come the Sablé de Wissant and the Fruitée du Cap Gris Nez. The dessert is the Calais, macaron paste, coffee butter cream and almonds, which you find in the pâtisseries. Fish is bought in the morning at the stalls on the quai de la Colonne; the markets are on Wednesday in place d'Armes, on Thursday in place Crèvecœur, on Saturday in both, and on Sunday in rue Greuze.

Sole à la Courguinoise
  • 2 soles of 500 g
  • 1 grey shallot
  • 5 cl white wine
  • 10 cl fish stock
  • 50 g butter
  • 150 g brown shrimps
  • 4 pink button mushrooms
  • 300 g mussels
  • 500 g cream, crème fraîche
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
  • salt
  • freshly ground pepper
Method
  1. fillet the soles and remove the heads; keep the bones aside, washed, for the stock
  2. in a frying pan melt the butter, add the sliced mushrooms and the fillets, and brown them on both sides
  3. take out the fillets and the mushrooms; in the same pan put the chopped shallot, deglaze with the white wine and let it reduce until dry
  4. pour in the stock, cook the mussels in it, then take them out and shell them, keeping a few shells aside
  5. let the stock reduce by half, and meanwhile peel the shrimps
  6. add the cream and let it simmer for five minutes; put the fillets and the mushrooms back in the pan, and season
  7. when the sauce is velvety and the fillets are cooked, add the mussels, the shrimp tails and the chives, and adjust the salt
  8. serve in deep plates, with a few mussel shells and a few herbs
Welsh · ingredients for 4 people
  • 600 g cheddar
  • 4 slices of bread
  • 4 teaspoons mustard
  • 15 cl amber or dark beer
Method
  1. dice the cheddar
  2. put the slices of bread in four ovenproof dishes, one each
  3. in a saucepan melt the cheddar without adding any fat, stirring all the time: at first it goes stringy, and that is normal
  4. when it coats the spoon, pour in the beer and stir until everything is blended
  5. add the mustard
  6. pour the cheese over the slices of bread
  7. put in the oven at 200 degrees for about ten minutes, until well browned
  8. serve at once, with a salad or with chips
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Looking

Calais in photographs

30 shots from our visit. Tap one to see it large.

the jetty with the green light at the harbour entrance, the beach and the town behind, with the lighthouse, Notre-Dame and the belfryPhoto: Tanya Dedyukhina, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Rodin's Burghers of Calais against the blue sky, with part of the belfry on the rightPhoto: Lionel Allorge, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Eustache de Saint-Pierre close up, the eldest of the burghers, with the rope around his neckPhoto: Lionel Allorge, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
the formal garden with the Burghers, seen from the top of the belfryPhoto: Gargarapalvin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Notre-Dame seen from the belfry, with the roofs of Calais-Nord, the lighthouse and the portPhoto: Zairon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
plaster studies of the Burghers in the Galerie Rodin of the Musée des Beaux-ArtsPhoto: Gargarapalvin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Place d'Armes around 1900, with the Tour du Guet and the old town hall destroyed in the warPhoto: Photochrom Print Collection, Wikimedia Commons, pubblico dominio
the Tour du Guet on Place d'Armes, among the Reconstruction housesPhoto: Velvet, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
the Tour du Guet from below under a blue sky, with the open arch at its basePhoto: Lionel Allorge, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Notre-Dame of Calais from the side, with its square tower and pale stone aislesPhoto: Zairon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the nave of Notre-Dame towards the choir, with the wooden ceiling and the altarpiece at the endPhoto: Zairon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the large marble altarpiece in the choir of Notre-Dame, behind the gilded screenPhoto: Zairon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the plaque in Notre-Dame recording the marriage of Charles de Gaulle and Yvonne Vendroux on 7 April 1921Photo: Andrewrabbott, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
a Via Francigena GR 145 waymark in the pavement of rue du Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-TassignyPhoto: Pierre André Leclercq, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the Calais lighthouse, white with a black lantern, under a cloudy skyPhoto: Nilfanion, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the lighthouse above the roofs, with the belfry and the tower of Notre-Dame on the rightPhoto: Tanya Dedyukhina, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
the lighthouse spiral staircase seen from abovePhoto: Jiel Beaumadier, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the lighthouse above the red-roofed houses of the Courgain maritime, across the harbour waterPhoto: Jiel Beaumadier, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
fishing boats and pleasure boats moored in the harbour, with the ferries in the distancePhoto: Jiel Beaumadier, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the Fort Risban behind the boats of the Bassin du ParadisPhoto: Ottaviani Serge, Wikimedia Commons, pubblico dominio
the column marking Louis XVIII's landing in 1814, with a ferry in the port behindPhoto: Davy-62, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the row of Leavers machines at the Cité de la dentelle, with white lace on the rollersPhoto: Pierre André Leclercq, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
a Leavers machine with the Jacquard punched cards hanging in frontPhoto: Pierre André Leclercq, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
a lace flounce on display at the Cité de la dentellePhoto: Pierre André Leclercq, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the white beach huts lined up on Calais beach, with a ferry on the horizonPhoto: Patrick Rouzet, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
a P&O ferry passes in front of the beach on its way into portPhoto: Jiel Beaumadier, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
the beach at low tide, with pools of water and rippled sand, in OctoberPhoto: Alexey Komarov, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
two ferries moored at the terminal, behind the jetty lightPhoto: Natalia Semenova, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Calais from above, with the roofs, the towers of Notre-Dame and the belfryPhoto: Jiel Beaumadier, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
a rider on the beach at Blériot-Plage, at low tide, with the wooden postsPhoto: Pierre André Leclercq, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0